Not long after I started this blog, I had posted a tutorial on working my favorite join-as-you-go method of working afghan shapes: the mitered square. It was called Mitering (or, How to Give Your Project the Norm Abram Treatment). I chose to only work a small mitered square for the post at that point because it is the building block for three other shapes: the Rectangle, the L, and the Large Mitered Square. However, I decided to hold off on the Large Square because there are two different methods to use to work it, one given in The Knitter’s Bible and the other is the technique that I prefer to use, that is slightly different.
The version given in The Knitter’s Bible is worked flat, using the same slipped stitch edging I usually employ that I’ve shown on here before, but…it creates an edge that has to be closed up by a three-needle bind off, which can be a bit awkward and also result in making the right side of the work become the wrong side with the three-needle bind off visible…not so cool.
The version I prefer to use is practically seamless and worked in the round. The square I’m working here I am planning on using as the center square of a new blanket I’m starting, and I’m envisioning the color scheme as a tricolor scheme based off of Neapolitan ice cream (which has chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry ice creams in it). The color of this square represents the strawberry, then I also plan on using white for the vanilla, and a deep brown yarn for the chocolate.
This particular square will be worked in garter stitch, and thus has special instructions for being worked in the round. This can be worked in stockinette, but be warned: it will curl. I imagine seed stitch could be used here, too, but trying to keep the stitches in pattern with all the decreases can be a bit tricky. For beginner knitters, garter stitch will do just fine.
For this, you’ll need:
- A circular needle (I’m using a US #9 here, but whatever size recommended for your chosen yarn is fine, as gauge is not a huge deal here), with a cable long enough to hold your chosen number of cast on stitches (I’m using a 29-inch circular, which can hold at least 100 stitches at a time at cast on; if you’re starting with a smaller number, I’d recommend going down to a 16-inch circular…a size I normally use for working hats)
- Yarn (I am using Red Heart Super Saver in Perfect Pink here; just as long as you have the recommended size needles for your yarn, yarn choice does not matter.
- 4 stitch markers (preferably three identical ones and a different one to use to mark the start/finish point of the round)
- A set of double pointed needles in the same size as your circulars (these are optional, but recommended if you’re using a smaller circular needle to start your square, as a 29-inch needle is the smallest size circular needle I’ve been able to comfortably work Magic Loop with)
Once you’ve got your materials together, you can start casting on.
- Using the knitted-on cast on, cast on the number of stitches you will need to work one small square, making sure that it is an odd number of stitches (my example here uses groups of 29 stitches, but you can play around with the number depending on the size of square you’re going for). After the first set of stitches is cast on, place a marker (I usually do this in knitted on cast on by starting to wrap and pull through the next stitch, placing the marker, and then placing the new cast on stitch — the first stitch of the next set of stitches — on the needle after the marker), and then proceed to cast on the next set of your chosen number of stitches. Repeat this until four sets of stitches have been cast on and three of the markers have been placed. Turn your work to prepare to join in the round.
- Place final marker to mark the start/finish point of the round, and then join to work in the round, making sure not to twist the stitches. For this stitch pattern, you will join by purling the first stitch of the round. (That is because this square is in garter stitch, which is worked in the round by purling one row around and then knitting the next. I work a purl round first so that the Center Double Decrease is worked neatly during each knit round.)
- Purl to the center stitch of the section (you can easily figure out this number by taking the number of total stitches in the section, subtract 1, and then divide that number by 2. The resulting number is the number of stitches you’ll need to work before you arrive at the center stitch. For the 29 stitch example, it would be determined as follows. 29-1 = 28; 28/2 =14. So in a square or section starting with 29 stitches, you’d have to work 14 before getting to the center stitch). Knit the center stitch, then purl to marker, slip marker. Repeat around.
- Next round: Knit to one stitch before the center stitch in the section, then work a center double decrease: slip 2 tog as to knit, k 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch. Knit to marker, slip marker. Repeat around.
Repeat 3 and 4, switching to Magic Loop or DPNs when there are too few stitches to hold on your full circular needle (in my example, this happened once I decreased to around 50-52 stitches). If using Magic Loop, using the start/finish marker and the marker indicating the halfway point of the round will help you divide the stitches. If using DPNs, a set of 5 needles will work perfectly, since you can use each of the four needles to work a section of the square and the fifth as your working needle. Though there will be “laddering” in both methods (caused by changes in tension between the same two columns of stitches), the garter stitch actually hides it for the most part and doesn’t really affect the aesthetic quality of the large square.
When you’ve decreased to four stitches (I suggest removing the markers as you work this last decrease row), break the yarn, leaving a long tail for weaving in. Using a yarn needle, work the tail through the stitches several times (preferably continuing in the same direction the work was knit, keeping that spiral going), much like gathering together the stitches at the top of a hat. I prefer to keep the stitches on the needles until the yarn has been worked through several times. Then, slide the stitches off the needles and pull the tail to tighten the stitches closed. Weave in the ends.
When all is said and done, your large square should look something like this.
These steps illustrate a freely knit square, but this method can also be done with picking up stitches along multiple edges (up to three, or even all four edges if you’re feeling brave), making sure that the center stitch of each section is picked up from the fabric. Cast on stitches as needed, depending on the orientation of the space where you’re picking up the stitches.
If you have any questions or need clarification on the steps, feel free to post your question in the comments.
Here are some pictures illustrating the various steps:

The square a couple of decrease rounds into the knitting.

The square a handful of rounds in and flattened out to show its shape beginning to form.

The square after having switched to Magic Loop, note how pronounced the points are.

The square down to its last four stitches, just before securing and weaving in the end.

The square in Magic Loop orientation, flattened to show shape being filled in.
I hope this post has provided a decent tutorial on how to make a large mitered square. If “Neapolitan” goes as smoothly as planned, I will provide updates on its progress. As for other projects still in progress, I have one just about finished (needs weaving in ends), one out of hibernation and slowly getting near the end of the knitting stage (and will also need weaving in ends), and a crochet project that is progressing very nicely (I am about a quarter of the way through the second cake of yarn I got for it). I hope to be able to provide updates on those projects as soon as I can.
Happy knitting, everybody!